SKINCARED

Skin, skin, skin! It’s been my top obsession these last two years.Foremost as an excuse to exhume the ghost out of my shell and melt together in one. Mindfully pat-pat-patting my skin reminded me I am flesh, bones, and sinews too. Skin structured my morning and night routine, almost feeling like a well-rounded person. Chaos got structured and filed next to adult-like files I just know nothing about. My skincare started simple, grew to routine evolving in structured days. Adulthood I cried tears of joy! And all the while excessive consumerism convinced me I need not money, not skin care, not anything. Hate to break it to the capitalist powers that be but I must say I really do love my skincare.

For two years now, I have been reading, searching, learning and obsessing. And I believe I have found answers to my needs. Can I share them with you!!? I just really like my pots and creams and weird jelly-like textures y’know? I’ve found the answers to my needs.Nothing of this is one hundred perfect applicable to just about any skin type, of course. but I hope you’ll enjoy catching a glimpse of my personal stash. If not, feel free to laugh at my vanity or click away.

This post took longer than expected so please consider this my first installment on my skincare obsession posts! Today I’ll detail my routine! Later posts will include my favorite ingredients, a bunch of knowledgeable sources. I’d like to collect wonderful articles and If I feel brave I might truly open up on the calm and comfort I find in my philosophy of skincare.

So here goes…

First off; let me mention my skin is very sensitive (I’m clueless on what exactly though – maybe butter, maybe strangers accidentally touching me, maybe myself). But one thing I know for sure is that most skin freaks out when trying too many things and products at once. This is, therefore, one of the golden rules according to redditAB.*.  If you want to read up on some good rules or are interested in getting to know the world of skincare the AsianBeauty reddit thread has written up some smart rules here that everyone needs to read or re-read occasionally. And another important golden rule is to NEVER, ever, start with more than one new product: introduce products slowly. A good rule of thumb is to wait for two, to three weeks (or more) to see if the product is working. If you incorporate too many products at once your skin might panic and you’ll have a hard time recovering and figuring out which ingredient was the one who caused the problems.

So with that warning start off with my routine! I’ve been slowly building this over two years or so. (probably not coincidentally going through a very intense shopping mania period.) For accessibility I have separated every step/product in the order I apply it. This line will also make it easier to jump from one step to another and jump to the ingredient list at the bottom of every product.

CLEANSE | TONE
 EXFOLIATE CHEMICAL | EXFOLIATE MANUAL
ESSENCES / AMPOULES / SERUMS | MOISTURIZER

INGREDIENTS

CLEANSE
– – – – – – – – 

Oil massage: A relaxing massage with oil is my favorite thing. It gets rid of dry skin, makeup, grime and probably a much more. It also reduces stress, especially when during the massaging you try to think of nothing else but your fingers softly moving and softly touching painful pressure points. It’s not always easy to do but Lisa’s Eldridge massage routine never fails to guide me. in a My favorite oils are squalene, rosehip (help reduce redness!) and jojoba. But I use a ton of others like linseed oil and avocado oil (perfect for very dry skin). I love all pure oils. I do not like cleansing oils because I find them too stripping.

My favorite oils are squalene, rosehip (help reduce redness!) and jojoba. But I use a ton of others like linseed oil and avocado oil (perfect for very dry skin). I love all pure oils but I do not like cleansing oils because I find them too stripping.

Cleansing water: After my oil massage I use Bioderma Bioderma Sensibio H2O Micellar Water + Demak’Up Original Cotton Pads (they’re very soft).

Before Bioderma I was and still am a faithful a fan of Garnier’s Micellar Water, but when Bioderma was two-for-one in the pharmacy and my mom supports me eying quality pharmacy products instead of online Korean purchases she gifted me the two for one discount. And, kind of to my chagrin, after reading the ingredient list I was attracted to the skin-soothing ingredients that Bioderma had to offer. Considering my sensitive skin and Garnier wasn’t all too gentle for me, I have to admit I love Bioderma more. For your info are the ingredient comparisons at the bottom of the post.

TONE 

– – – – –

Missha First Treatment Essence I love this toner. My first love. This one seems like water but is not only magically hydrating it also has interesting ingredients that all seem to combat the persistent on my nose! Among which is ‘Saccharomyces Ferment Filtrate’. Something… fermented? When I started using Missha’s FTE I didn’t think it was doing much of anything. Then tragedy befell: I had finished my first bottle and the bitch was back: my bright red reindeer nose. But this product recently caught my eye and it seems good enough to drop my FTE… Cue the drama, mystery & suspense:

COSrx Galactomyces 95 Whitening Power Essence
Basically: this is cheaper. But basic too: the ingredient list. Simple but is it effective too? Sure seems so… I’ve let myself believe that Niacinamide helps restore skin, fade redness and marks. Sodium Hyaluronate is extremely hydrating. Allantoin and adenosine also either helps with redness and/or is a skin “brightener” (not to be confused with skin whitener! – Google it!). Once I’ve scraped all my pennies together I must try this one.

3. Vita Verde orange blossom water
Honest: smells nice, is super hydrating and cheap. My favorite ingredients! It soothes too, both emotionally and physically. During exam-horror-stress months I continually reapplied this. My mind flaked, my skin glowed.

4. Kikumasamune Sake Skin Lotion High Moisture
The selling point for me: this smells like sake. Look at that cute humongous bottle. Also it has ceramides, which is good for a reason or other. If you decant it in something smaller, It is the perfect toner to carry whenever, wherever. Need a refresher for your dried out sandpaper skin Kiku is here to help. She’s my best friend.

EXFOLIATE (CHEMICAL)
optional: only if needed
– – – – – – – – – – – – – – – – – – – – – –

Why feel the need to slowly burn your flesh away with chemicals. Well first, it’s the most Cronenbergesque way to live for cheap. Second, when used correctly this stuff is gentler than granulated manual scrubs.
WARNING: when using it slowly incorporate in your routine. Paula’s Choice recommends every other day, I recommend starting at maximum once every two weeks – but to each their own.

Paula’s Choice 8% AHA Once of the less harsh chemical peels. Other than that is jam-packed with calming ingredients and one of my has my favorite ingredients: Sodium Hyaluronate, The Hydrator. Use for lackluster skin and extra glow.

Paula’s Choice 2% BHA My Battlestar for pimple-control and defeating redness. A tip that works for me: if you have one of those pimple patches just add a drop of the 2% BHA before sticking it on a pimple. In one two three (if it’s a cyst) days it can have completely disappeared. Also, use this all-over whenever you feel the need but beware for destroying your acid mantle.

Vitamin C C20 (20% vitamin C) This is a tricky friend; I can only wear it for long or else my skin will be damaged. These days I wear it as a 20-minute mask and then take it all off by a good oil massage and ooh- and aahing at all the dead skin that comes off with it. Why bother? Note sure, really? But I heard Vitamin C helps redness and decoloration.

 

EXFOLIATE (MANUAL)
optional: only if needed
– – – – – – – – – – – – – – – – – – – – – –

Well didn’t I just say manual exfoliation can be too harsh? The multiplicity of identity, OK. Who can resist peeling your dead dirty skin off? Not me.But you only need the softest of scrubs. Walnut chunks, everyday use, scrub-rubbing until red are strictly prohibited. Softness smooths and soothes. Soft scrubs take away the gunk, harsher scrubs may take away necessary skin layers.

Dr. G. scrub Seems to use pieces of cotton or other wooly cloud-like material to gently scrub the skin.

Qiriness Bought in a feverish desperation when I’d forgotten all my exfoliators. The salesperson said something something, enzymes, something, rice. So this one is a little harsher but kinda fun..

 

ESSENCE / AMPOULES / SERUMS

– – – – – – – – – – – – – – – – – – – – – – –

Ambrosia reserved for the gods has finally arrived in the capitalist markets. These goopy textures make you glow while soothing and repairing your skin.

COSRX Advanced Snail 96 Mucin Power Essence I’m not sure I can believe in the supposed healing powers of snail excretion. But It’ does what it does: Calms my skin, reduces red spots and hydrates. And it gives me that glow. Yet the product is almost nothing but snail. It also has Betaine, Sodium Hyaluronate, Panthenol, Arginine, Allantoin and more.

SCINIC Honey all-in-one ampoule It’s HUGE. It’s HONEY. It’s CHEAP. And it’s good. Not mind blowing but good. It’s soothing and hydrating and there is A LOT of it. I purchased this last year and still have half left. The one I have finished this I do have my eyes on the SCINIC Aqua all-in-one ampoule (look at this stunning ingredient list).

Mizon Snail Repair Intensive Ampoule
Though COSrx may have won me over snail-wise, I still yearn for this Mizon snail. When using this I had the best skin: blemishes disappeared in the wink of an eye, my hydration levels were off-the-charts. Sadly, the bottle is just too damn itsl for it’s price.

Pure Aloe Vera
I mainly use this for the cooling effect on my face during a stress breakout. (Even better when paired with my orange blossom toner!) I use any brand I can find that seems like it has a decent amount of aloe in.

 

(SHEET) MASKS
– – – – – – – – – – – – –

Honestly? I use any and all I can afford. I dream for gold foils, ultra-thin masks, …. all the variations. My last splurge was Tosowoong Pure Propolis Mask and though I liked it I have yet to meet a mask that truly impresses me. Alas, the most miraculous sheet masks seem a bit too overpriced. And non-sheet masks put too much emphasis on harsh clays. I need soothing ingredients and intense H Y D R A T I O N. Do I ask for too much? (Please consider this a cry for help (or free samples). Thank you)

MOISTURIZER

– – – – – – – – – – – – –


LA ROCHE POSAY LIPIKAR BAUME AP+

This just saves me every winter from a flaky and irritated skin. Helps restore my frequently stressed out skin that seems to be prone to eczema. And most importantly gives me a beautiful glow throughout my day. My pharmacist recommends it for sensitive children. Needless to say, it is my one and true die-hard skincare love. It’s there whenever I need it, in sickness and in health.

 

 

SUNSCREEN
– – – – – – – – – – – – –

And most important of all and especially when you incorporate actives in your skincare a sunscreen is a must. At this point, I’d like to mention I hardly know anything about sunscreens so educate me if you wish. Personally, I use a mashup of brands but my favorite is Louis Widmer and La Roche-Posay (Anthélios). I’ve been eyeing the Japanese Bioré sunscreen but I just can’t bring myself to order it. Recommend me some sunscreens, please!

 

 

 

INGREDIENTS

 

CLEANSE

Bioderma
WATER (AQUA), PEG-6 CAPRYLIC/CAPRIC GLYCERIDES, CUCUMIS SATIVUS (CUCUMBER) FRUIT EXTRACT, MANNITOL, XYLITOL, RHAMNOSE, FRUCTOOLIGOSACCHARIDES, PROPYLENE GLYCOL, DISODIUM EDTA, CETRIMONIUM BROMIDE.

Garnier
AQUA/WATER, HEXYLENE GLYCOL, GLYCERIN, DISODIUM COCOAMPHODIACETATE, DISODIUM EDTA, POLOXAMER 184, BIGUANIDE

TONERS

Missha First Treatment Essence (FTE)
Saccharomyces Ferment Filtrate, Bigida Ferment Lysate, Propanediol, Niacinamide, Polyquaternium-51, Ulmus Davidiana Root Extract, Betaine, Amaranthus Caudatus Seed Extract, Pirper Methysticum Leaf/Root/Stem Extract, Beta vulgaris (Beet) Root extract, Phellodendron Amurense Bark Extract, Cassia Alata Leaf Extract, Hydrogenated Lecithin, Sodium Hyaluronate, Pentylene Glycol, Water, Trehalose, Disodium EDTA, Hydrolyzed Corn Starch, Adenosine, Ethylhexylglycerin, Butylene Glycol, Glycerin, Raffinose, Tromethamine, Acetic Acid, Lactic Acid, 1, 2-Hexanediol, Caprylic Glycol, Hexapeptide-9 Phenoxyethanol, Potassium Sorbate

COSrx Galactomyces 95 Whitening Power Essence
Galactomyces Ferment Filtrate, Niacinamide, Sodium Hyaluronate, Betaine, Panthenol, Glycerin, 1,2-Hexanediol, Allantoin, Butylene Glycol, Xanthan Gum, Ethyl Hexanediol, Adenosine

Vita Verde orange blossom
water (aqua), phenoxyethanol, PEG-40 hydrogenated castor oil, lactic, citrus, aurantium amara (bitter orange) flower oil, propylene glycol, limone, linalool

Kikumasamune Sake Skin Lotion High MoistureWater, glycerin, butylene glycol, rice ferment filtrate (sake), glutamate, arginine, leucine, ceramide 3, ceramide 6 II, placenta extract, arbutin, Glycyrrhizic acid, soy protein, maltitol, methyl gluceth-10, peg-60 hydrogenated castor oil, hydroxyethyl cellulose, alkyl styrene/acrylic acid copolymer, citric acid, sodium citrate, phenoxyethanol, methylparaben, fragrance

EXFOLIATION – CHEMICAL

2%BHA
Salicylic Acid 2% Inactive: Water (Aqua), Dipropylene Glycol (hydration), Pentylene Glycol (hydration), Polysorbate 20 (stabilizer), Butylene Glycol (hydration), Glycerin (skin replenishing), Sodium Hyaluronate (hydration/skin replenishing), Dipotassium Glycyrrhizate (skin-soothing), Allantoin (skin-soothing), Panthenol (hydration), PEG/PPG-17/6 Copolymer (texture-enhancing), Methyl Gluceth-20 (hydration), Glycereth-26 (texture-enhancing), Bis-PEG-18 Methyl Ether Dimethyl Silane (hydration), Sodium Hydroxide (pH adjuster), Tetrasodium EDTA (stabilizer), Sodium Metabisulfite (stabilizer).

8% BHA
Water (Aqua), Glycolic Acid (alpha hydroxy acid/exfoliant), Sodium Hydroxide (pH adjuster), Chamomilla Recutita Matricaria Flower Extract (chamomile/skin-soothing), Aloe Barbadensis Leaf Juice (hydration), Camellia Oleifera Leaf Extract (green tea/antioxidant/skin-soothing), Sodium Hyaluronate (skin replenishing), Panthenol (hydration), Sodium PCA (skin replenishing), Propylene Glycol (hydration), Butylene Glycol (hydration), Hydroxyethylcellulose (texture-enhancing), Polyquaternium-10 (texture-enhancing), Phenoxyethanol (preservative), Sodium Benzoate (preservative).

Vitamine C
Water, Ascorbic Acid, Alcohol, Sodium Lactate, Butylene Glycol, Glucose, PEG-60 Hydrogenated Castor Oil, 1,2-Hexanediol, Phenoxyethanol, Sodium Hyaluronate, Bis-PEG-18 Methyl Ether Dimethyl Silane, Xanthan Gum, Diethoxyethyl Succinate, Ammonium Acryloyldimethyltaurate/VP Copolymer, Carthamus Tinctorius (Safflower) Flower Extract, Citrus Aurantium Dulcis (Orange) Peel Oil, Glycerin, Zinc PCA, Panthenol, Niacinamide, t-Butyl Alcohol, Camellia Sinensis Leaf Extract, Beta-Glucan, Tocopheryl Acetate, Lecithin, Caprylic/Capric Triglyceride, Ubiquinone, Diisopropyl Adipate

 

EXFOLIATION – MANUEL

 

 

Dr. G.
Water, Cellulose, Dipropylene Glycol, Trehalose, Butylene Glycol, Fornes Officinalis (Mushroom) Extract, Althaea Rosea Flower Extract, Aloe Barbadensis Leaf Extract, Diospyros Kaki Leaf Extract, Rhus Semialata Gall Extract, Betula Platyphylla Japonica Bark Extract, Honey Extract, Glycyrrhiza Glabra (Licorice) Root Extract, Salix Nigra (Willow) Bark Extract, Tocopheryl Acetate, Ascorbyl Glucoside, Chlorphenesin, Caprylhydroxamic Acid, Caprylyl Glycol, Glycerin, PEG-60 Hydrogenated Castor Oil, Allantoin, Acrylates/Cl 0-30 Alkyl Acrylate Crosspolymer, Fragrance, Potassium Hydroxide, Disodium EDTA

Qirines
aqua (water, paraffin, stearic acid, oryza sativa (rice) starch, caprylic/capric triglyceride, saccharide isomerate, bisabolol, ilium candidum bulb extract, bacillus ferment, triethanolamine, glyceryl stearate, peg-100 stearate, benzyl alcohol, chlorphenesin, stearalkonium hectorite, disodium EDTA, propylene glycol, propylene carbonate, glycerin, peg-8, chlorhexidine digluconate, tocopherol, citric acid, sodium citrate ascorbyl palmitate, ascorbic acid, potassium sorbate, parfum (fragrance), butylphenyl methylpropional, hexyl cinnamal, linalool, benzyl selicylate

ESSENCES / SERUMS / AMPOULES

COSRX Snail Mucin 96 Essence
Panthenol, Arginine, Allantoin, Ethyl Hexanediol, Sodium Polyacrylate, Carbomer, Phenoxyethanol

SCINIC Honey all-in-one ampoule
Honey Extract, Glycerin, Water, Niacinamide, Royal Jelly Extract, Propolis Extract, Centella Asiatica Extract, Polygonum Cuspidatum Root Extract, Scutellaria Baicalensis Root Extract, Camellia Sinensis Leaf Extract, Glycyrrhiza Glabra (Licorice) Root Extract, Chamomilla Recutita (Matricaria) Flower Extract, Rosmarinus Officinalis (Rosemary) Leaf Extract, Hydrolyzed Silk, Aloe Barbadensis Leaf Extract, Lactobacillus/Soybean Ferment Extract, Salix Alba (Willow) Bark Extract, Cinnamomum Cassia Bark Extract, Origanum Vulgare Leaf Extract, Chamaecyparis Obtusa Leaf Extract, Portulaca Oleracea Extract, Dipotassium Glycyrrhizate, Hydroxyethylcellulose, Carbomer, PEG-60 Hydrogenated Castor Oil, Triethanolamine, Caramel, Adenosine, Xanthan Gum, Disodium EDTA, 1,2-Hexanediol, Caprylyl Glycol, Illicium Verum (Anise) Fruit Extract, Fragrance, Phenoxyethanol

 

Mizon Snail Repair Intensive Ampoule
Snail Secretion Filtrate, Sodium Hyaluronate, Butylene Glycol, Glycerin, Alcohol, Panthenol, Glycereth-26, Punica Granatum Extract, Theobroma Cacao (cocoa) Extract, Carbomer, Triethanolamine, Trehalose, Copper Tripeptide-1, Human Ogliopeptide-1, Palmitoyl Pentapeptide-4, Cornus Officinalis Fruit Extract, Nelumbo Nucifera Flower Extract, Caprylyl Glycol, Ethylhexylglycerin, Tropolone, Sodium Polyacrylate, Adenosine, Coptis Japonica Extract, Disodium Edta

MOISTURIZER

LA ROCHE POSAY LIPIKAR BAUME AP+
AQUA / WATER, BUTYROSPERMUM PARKII BUTTER / SHEA BUTTER, GLYCERIN, DIMETHICONE, NIACINAMIDE, PARAFFINUM LIQUIDUM / MINERAL OIL, CETEARYL ALCOHOL, BRASSICA CAMPESTRIS OLEIFERA OIL / RAPESEED SEED OIL, AMMONIUM POLYACRYLDIMETHYLTAURAMIDE / AMMONIUM POLYACRYLOYLDIMETHYL TAURATE, PEG-100 STEARATE, GLYCERYL STEARATE, PEG-20 METHYL GLUCOSE SESQUISTEARATE, CERA MICROCRISTALLINA / MICROCRYSTALLINE WAX, PARAFFIN, SORBITAN TRISTEARATE, DIMETHICONOL

new song

I love this dress. I got it because it felt work appropriate and I’m always trying to find a balance between work and fun in my clothes. Reading the sartorial guidelines on a possible new job opening……. I am very much off the mark. Haha! It’s way too short and of course I cannot ignore my instinct to pair it with bright colours (so bright here). Oh well. No job yet. Maybe a break instead.

That said, I’ve been very obsessed with Akiko Yano (again & again & again). My latest favourite song is with YUKI! Formerly lead singer of super obnoxious pop punk band JUDY AND MARY, who has a child-like, off-kilter and high-pitched voice. Naturally, I went through my JAM obsessed phase too so it’s cool to see them intertwine. The song is a duet with YUKI & Akiko, covering the title track of Yano’s best albums: Gohan ga Dekita yo (Dinner’s Ready). I’ve only read and half understood the songs but according to Kayo Kyoko Plus “the singer[s] sound like a particularly welcoming Mama armed with a hot pot of soup.”

The google translate works for me too though:

It was fun too
I was happy also today.
Although I cried a bit
It is such energy

never wallowing in its own simple words:

I was sad.
It was sad.
Although I laughed a bit
What will it be …

You can find the duet with Yuki on the 2006 album はじめてのやのあきこ. Akiko and Yuki’s voices go together so well. And the double layer if singing such simple words in “child-like voices”, which is of course not simple at all but imbued with a very deep sense of nostalgia.

This version on youtube seems to be only Yuki singing which is also quite lovely!